Makgeolli, a milky-white rice wine, was selected as the hit product of 2009, by the Samsung Economic Research Institute (SERI), ranking ahead of the H1N1 vaccine (second) and the figure skater Kim Yu-Na (third). How was it possible for this long-humble rice wine to suddenly emerge as the No. 1 fermented alcoholic drink in Korea?

Huh Shi Myung Headmaster, Makgeolli School/Researcher, Korean Traditional Alcohol
Ahn Hong-beom Photographer

The popularity of makgeolli has been boosted by people′s virtual obsession with any product related to wellness or good health.
The white color results from various dietary fibers, amino acids, and organic compounds of the rice. As the healthfulness of
these components has become common knowledge among the public, Koreans have increasingly sought to include makgeolli
in their regular diet.

A number of news stories garnered attention in 2009, among which no item was more unexpected than the emergence of makgeolli as the No. 1 alcoholic beverage of Korean consumers. That this long-humble rice wine would be named the top hit product of 2009 in Korea was indeed a surprise. Moreover, because its production and distribution processes generate lower carbon dioxide emissions than imported liquor, a Korean environmental organization selected makgeolli as a "Contributor to the World in 2009" award winner, under the "Environment and Climate Change" category.
Although makgeolli′s consumer popularity surged dramatically in 2009, it has always been an integral aspect of Korea′s alcohol culture. In fact, it is Korea′s oldest alcoholic drink and the one most familiar to Korean people. Practically without exception, middle-aged Koreans have at least a few personal experiences related to makgeolli. An all too common incident involves being sent to a local brewery to pick up makgeolli for your father or family, then, while wondering why adults enjoyed this drink so much, taking a swig or two along the way, and finally arriving home in a somewhat tipsy condition.

Common People′s Choice
Up to the time of the 1988 Seoul Olympics, makgeolli was the most consumed form of alcohol in Korea. However, after the Olympics, Korea experienced a sharp jump in overseas travel and heavy inflow of imports due to the government′s push for liberalization measures. Amid this change, makgeolli began to be seen as out-dated and rapidly gave way to beer. During the period of Korea′s rapid urbanization and modernization, makgeolli began to fall out of favor, and was largely forgotten before its meteoric rise in 2009, when it captured the fancy of not only Koreans but also foreigners with an exposure to Korean culture. Despite an overall downward trend for exports, makgeolli export sales increased 20 percent as compared to 2008. What factors enabled makgeolli to realize such a phenomenal resurgence among Korean consumers?
Makgeolli is the mainstay alcoholic beverage consumed by working-class Koreans. It is also known as takju, meaning "cloudy alcohol," because of its milky appearance, as well as nongju, or "farm alcohol," as a result of its longtime association with Korea′s agrarian roots. Traditionally, makgeolli was brewed at home, but in the 20th century, it became subject to taxation, whereby only licensed breweries were allowed to produce makgeolli, as of 1934. However, in 1995, legislation was enacted that allowed households to brew their own wine. Nowadays, an increasing number of people are learning about and brewing makgeolli. Much like growing your own vegetables, people will take the time to brew their own wine for self-satisfaction and quality control. And ever more foreigners have shown an interest in its home brewing, which can be seen in their growing numbers at the courses about makgeolli and brewing techniques offered by specialized institutions, such as our Makgeolli School.
Makgeolli is made with nonglutinous rice, the staple of the Korean diet. Sticky rice, barley, or millet are added at times, but nonglutinous rice is the basic ingredient. First, the rice is cooked with a minimal amount of water so that the grains remain drier and less sticky. A fermenting agent, called nuruk, is added to the cooked rice, along with more water. Although yeast alone might be used when making regular wine, makgeolli requires nuruk, ground whole wheat combined with yeast and a diastatic enzyme, to enhance the fermentation. The cooked rice, water, and nuruk are combined in proportions of about 5 to 7.5 to 1, respectively. The mixture is stirred vigorously by hand in a large container, and then stored in a crock to ferment. Fermentation takes five days in summer and seven days in winter. The fermented mixture then must be strained, with any residue that collects on the surface being pressed through the strainer to extract the elements that create makgeolli′s cloudy liquid. If consumed in this form, it is known as raw makgeolli. When the milky liquid is heated to 65°C for 30 minutes it results in a pasteurized makgeolli.

Young Consumers and Foreigners
The popularity of makgeolli has been boosted by people′s virtual obsession with any product related to wellness or good health. The alcohol content of makgeolli is about 150 percent higher than that of beer, but only half the level of wine. Because of its lower alcohol content, it also appeals to women, who find it easier to drink. Makgeolli′s liquid is as white as milk, prompting the Japanese to call it milky sake. The white color results from various dietary fibers, amino acids, and organic compounds of the rice. As the healthfulness of these components has become common knowledge among the public, Koreans have increasingly sought to include makgeolli in their regular diet.
The pairing of makgeolli with forms of recreational activity has been one of the factors that contributed to its popularity. For long, makgeolli was known as the drink of choice among farmers and common laborers. Taking large gulps from a bowl of makgeolli gave farmers in the field a warm sensation, along with providing a boost of energy for their demanding work. A low-alcohol drink, it left people refreshed yet clear-minded. Recently, makgeolli became popular among golf and hiking enthusiasts. And even more so than in the past, hikers developed a habit of including makgeolli in their backpacks before departing for their favorite mountainside. If stored in the freezer, the makgeolli will thaw out in about two hours, providing ice-cold refreshment and an energy boost. The demand for makgeolli among hikers can be readily seen by the many vendors who hawk this rice wine at the base of popular mountains, and along the upper trails as well.
In addition, there are specialty restaurants that cater to mountain trekking groups, where a serving of makgeolli is accompanied by a dish of dubu kimchi (tofu and kimchi). In this case, the makgeolli is known as hasanju, or "alcohol for coming down the mountain." Meanwhile, following a round of golf, golfers have come to prefer makgeolli, rather than the more expensive liquors that had once been favored. This trend has gained momentum due to a growing appreciation among consumers of makgeolli′s exceptional ability to quench your thirst and provide a sense of revitalization, especially when winding up an afternoon of golf or hiking.
Indeed, the low-key image of makgeolli had been wholly transformed in 2009. Nowadays, at drinking establishments around college campus areas, makgeolli is sold in smartly designed packaging to entice young consumers. Moreover, makgeolli cocktails are now made with fruit blends, such as strawberry, pineapple, black raspberry, and peach, which have struck a chord with female students. The hotel industry has also introduced an inexpensive makgeolli priced at 1,000 won per 750-milliliter bottle. In addition, hotels serve makgeolli, in stylish celadon wares, in their restaurants. Meanwhile, the expanded availability of makgeolli has encouraged Koreans to introduce this new icon of Korea′s drinking culture to their foreign associates and visitors.

Japanese Embrace Makgeolli
Recently, Japanese visitors have taken a particularly keen liking to makgeolli. During the latter half of 2008, as a result of the yen′s appreciation, to take advantage of the favorable exchange rate, hordes of Japanese visitors made their way to Korea, where one of their favorite Korean products was makgeolli. Asked why Japanese tourists have come to embrace makgeolli with such enthusiasm, Tanaka Hiroshi, a journalist of the forthcoming magazine Korean Dietary Culture, explained: "Some middle-aged Japanese women are so fascinated by Korean TV dramas and films that they visit Korea four or five times a year. Their knowledge of Korean culture is both broad and deep, and they are not satisfied with the usual tourist fare. They are looking for something more traditional than bulgogi [barbecued ribs], naengmyeon [cold noodles], Chuncheon dakgalbi [stir-fried chicken and vegetables], and bibimbap [rice mixed with vegetables], which have long been served at restaurants in Japan. This is how they came to discover makgeolli."
Kim Hyo-seop, a representative of Yidong Japan, the leading makgeolli retailer in Japan, said that Japanese interest in Korean food has shifted from kimchi, galbi (grilled, marinated meat), gim (dried seaweed), and yuja cha (citron tea) to makgeolli. Today, there are even makgeolli breweries in Japan operated by local Japanese.

Makgeolli Nouveau
In fall 2009, "Makgeolli Nouveau" debuted on the Korean market, causing a further stir among consumers. In contrast to its long-held image as a low-cost drink, the new makgeolli version was priced three times higher than regular brands. In recent times, makgeolli has been made from lower-priced imported rice, which might have been in storage for two years or so, along with imported whole wheat flour often being used for the nuruk. However, the new makgeolli is made from recently harvested locally-grown rice, which appealed to the sentiments of Korean consumers. Because the fresh rice cost three times more than imported rice, the price of the new makgeolli was roughly three times higher as well.
This new makgeolli was launched on the third Thursday of November, to coincide with the annual release of the Beaujolais Nouveau wines. The wines from the Beaujolais region of France are highly regarded by wine drinkers in Korea and worldwide; however, the new makgeolli managed to outsell the French wines. The marketing strategy provided Korean consumers with an opportunity to compare the so-called Makgeolli Nouveau with Beaujolais Nouveau, a standard of the wine market.
All of this has led to the emergence of makgeolli schools, which offer courses on brewing homemade makgeolli. The fact that people are now seeking to understand Korean culture through makgeolli, while searching for new tastes and experiences, seems to offer clear evidence that the recent interest in makgeolli is more than some passing fancy.
A favorite pastime of Koreans is to enjoy makgeolli with pajeon, a fried pancake-like dish made with flour, eggs, green onions, and additional ingredients, such as seafood. As for dubu kimchi, it is a simple dish of plain tofu (dubu) with a garnish of fried kimchi. The mild flavor of the tofu and spiciness of the kimchi are a perfect complement to the unique taste of makgeolli, which includes a complex blend of sweet, sour and bitter tones that can satisfy even the most discriminating palate. In fact, if you want to make friends with a Korean, all you need to do is suggest that you stop by somewhere to enjoy makgeolli with dubu kimchi.