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네이버 공유 카카오 공유 트위터 공유 페이스북 공유

The Sweet Scent of Spring and Culture in Korea

I came to Korea for the first time this year, after being selected as a field research fellow with the Korea Foundation. During my stay in Seoul, an international megacity, I got a taste of Korea’s modernity. Koreans are now world leaders in information technology, among other industries. Luckily, I was also given an opportunity to observe various cultural events held in the countryside, which captivated the spirit of Korea’s traditional culture and national sentiments. My love for this nation seems to grow as I discover its traditional cultural legacy. My love for Korea reached its peak when I partic- ipated in the 2003 Wang-In Culture Festival. This festival was held in Yeongam-gun (Yeongam County), Jeollanam-do, while the cherry blossoms of late April were in full bloom.

Experiencing Traditional Culture and Warm Hearts
Wang-In Baksa (Dr. Wang-In), for whom the Wang-In Culture Festival is dedicated, was a renowned scholar who, in response to an invitation made by the Japanese Emperor Eungshin at around the fourth century B.C., left for Japan from Yeongam. He took with him ten books of the Analects of Confucius and a book of Cheonjamun, the thousand character text. He became well-known for his contribution to the development of Japan’s Aska culture.

From the place Wang-In was born, to Sangdaepo, where he left for Japan, a parade in Baekje costumes revived the journey of Wang-In.Over time, as more attention was given to Wang-In, historical sites relevant to the famous scholar were reconstructed to attempt to keep alive his achievements. According to Wang-In festival organizers, Gurim village in Yeongam-gun holds a series of festivals every year, starting with the Chunhyang Festival, commemorating the noble spirit of the Baekje era scholar. These festivities feature folklore performances, the Dopoje tug of war, and the Jeongdong Well Festival, attracting many foreign tourists. Upon receiving a special invitation by Yeongam-gun, a group of foreigners of which I was a part had a great opportunity to observe Korea’s folklore and culture in person by participating in the Wang-In Culture Festival. Of the diverse programs at the festival, a traditional event called Gillori (street parade) was the most memorable. It gave a hands-on experience to each visitor.

“How do you do? It’s my pleasure to have you here. I’m a volunteer here, and I was wondering if you would mind changing your clothes?” With these kind words and the assistance of the festival’s on-site helpers, every single foreigner, regardless of their size, changed into the symbolic attire of the Baekje Kingdom. This opportunity to dress in the traditional clothes of such an ancient kingdom left a favorable impression on me. As the festival started, the mixed sound of gongs, drums, and bugles rang in everyone’s ears. Bringing up the rear of the massive parade, which made its way around all of Gurim village, was our group of foreigners, all of different nationalities and cultural origins.

The idea of a band of foreigners dancing their version of a Korean folk dance, while waving to spectators lining both sides of the street, seemed slightly ridiculous even to us. We felt the strong sense of local hospitality, however, when we saw the beaming faces of the enthusiastically applauding spectators. The lively nature of the parade seemed to envelop the entire festival, as though its costumed participants melted into a single body under the heat of its own atmosphere. Admirers of the springtime scenery could not take their eyes off of the radiant cherry blossoms resplendent on both sides of the street.

Accumulating Admiration While Tracing Wang-In’s Steps
The parade finally reached its destination at Sangdaepo, where Wang-In Baksa departed for Japan. One of the main features of the Wang-In Culture Festival is the recreation of the ancient ritual performed when Wang-In set sail for Japan. Some may consider this to be a relatively insignificant part of the festival, symbolically demonstrating an historical event that took place some 1600 years ago, on a small lake in Sangdaepo. However, in the still breathtaking scenery once enjoyed by the Baekje king, his numerous subjects, and Wang-In, we were able to witness a presentation celebrating the great scholar’s benevolence and his aspirations to spread new ideas in another country, transcending racial and national boundaries. As such, many Japanese people come to this place to hold a joint memorial ceremony, commemorating the spirit of Wang-In, who will always be revered as the originator of arts, crafts, songs, and ballads in their culture. A Wang-In Memorial Ceremony, along with a Wang-In Festival, also takes place in Hirakata city, Osaka, where Wang-In’s grave is situated, on September ninth (under the lunar calendar) each year.

After the Gillori was over, we received word that Munsanjae, traditionally known as the place where Wang-In engaged in his studies, was situated in Mt. Wolchul, and we headed in that direction. Mt. Wolchul, which is referred to as Mt. Gumkang (meaning diamond) of South Korea, is the symbolic face of Yeongam. We felt as though we were following Wang-In’s ancient footsteps as we walked up the narrow path toward Munsanjae. Halfway up a hill, known as Munpil, in Jukjung village, we found Munsanjae.
During the Chosun Dynasty, this village schoolhouse was reopened and named Munsanjae, and people came in droves to study there because of its fame for producing many distinguished scholars. With this increase in the student population, Munsanjae eventually proved to be too small to accommodate all of its students. A new school called Yangsaje was built next to it.

Naturally, a group of us took commemorative photographs in front of Munsanjae and Yangsajae. Our poses imitated those of disciples aspiring to become real seonbi (scholars). We continued to gain admiration for Wang-In as we learned that he devoted himself to his studies in the harsh environment of Chaekgul (book cave), a narrow, pitch-black cave in Mt. Wolchul. We bowed before his stone statue in front of Chaekgul, remembering the innumerable cultural legacies that he left to both Korea and Japan. Standing on the stone at the Chaekgul cave of Mt. Wolchul gave us an incredible view of Yeongam-gun.

An Intimate Moment with Uninhibited Koreans
Yeongam is made up of the villages at the foot of Mt. Wolchul. Yeongam itself means a place where a stone with divine spirits is located, and is a place blessed with sacred spirits. Yeongam produced a number of prominent people, including Wang-In and Doseon, a reverend monk who built the temple Dogap-sa and is regarded as the founder of the theory of division based on topography. It is also rich with historic cultural assets.

Among these assets is Gurim pottery, especially the earthenware coffin with its dark-brown glaze, a major milestone in Korea’s pottery history and a source of pride. At the Yeongam pottery cultural center, we made pottery of various shapes under the guidance of a pottery master. Even as amateurs, we worked enthusiastically well into the night and came up with our own “masterpieces.” More importantly we again had an opportunity to have first-hand experiences similar to those we had during the Gillori.

Closing ceremonyAs it got dark, Gurim village showed yet another side of itself. Cannon salutes filled the skies, blending in with the Wang-In Culture Festival’s atmosphere. Yeongam’s exquisite cuisine, such as its beef-rib soup, roasted small octopus, and boiled eels, were specially prepared for this event, making it hard to choose which dish would be the most enjoyable. The village brimmed over with tourists, drinking and enjoying the night with their friends. The festival shows climaxed, their sounds reaching and touching every person as they made their way along the cherry-blossomed streets. People hummed and danced under the stage, swaying their arms to the rhythm. In the surrounding night, I felt as though I could see their bright futures as descendents of Wang-In. Their actions were completely uninhibited as they showed their pride, enjoying life to its fullest, in the richness of their homeland.

Toward the middle of the night, our time in Gurim finally came to an end. The cherry blossoms, gleaming now in the streetlights, eased our sadness as we left. We were mesmerized with this beautiful scene, and even though I was fascinated with the sweet scent of the fully bloomed cherry blossoms, I was all the more lost in the scent of the culture of this land: a culture so deeply rooted in the life, and the traditions of Wang-In’s descendents.

Yu Cheng Yun is now working on a thesis on “the relationship of Korean scholars and Ryoseo Gangnyusa of the Ming and Ching Dynasties.” He is in Korea and will stay for 10 months from Feb. 2003 to Dec. 2003 under the sponsorship of a KF research fellowship. The Wang-in Culture Festival has been held since 1997 under the sponsorship of Yeongam-gun and the Yeongam County Festival Organizing Committee. The writer observed this event from April 4 to April 5, 2003 on the recommendation of the Foundation. You can find more information about the festival on its website (www.wangin.org). _Ed.

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