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Experiencing the Art of Korean Cuisine

The Korea Foundation and Embassy of the Republic of Korea in the United States collaborated to provide a unique opportunity to experience Korean haute cuisine at the Willard InterContinental Hotel in Washington D.C. on May 5th and 7th, 2009.

At the press luncheon on May 5th, the select number of guests included members of both the Korean and American food media, and members of Les Dames d’Escoffier, including the president of its international board. Representatives from the Smithsonian Institution, USA Rice Federation, Asia Society, The Ritz Carlton Hotel, cookbook authors and cooking schools, including What’s Cooking! and L’Academie de Cuisine were also present. The restaurateurs in attendance included Executive Chef Robert Weland of Poste Moderne Brasserie; Cliff Wharton, Chef de Cuisine of TenPenh, who spent his childhood in the Philippines; Tracy O’Grady, the chef-owner of Willow Restaurant who represented the United States in the world-renowned Bocused’Or competition in Lyon, France; and Nongkran Daks, the chef-owner of her restaurant Thai Basil that was featured on the Food Network Channel in “Throwdown with Bobby Flay”.

Chef Ahn Jung-hyun, the Traditional Korean Haute Cuisine Specialist
“I am amazed that it is possible to find such wonderful food in Korea. The food here is truly unique!”- PierreGagnaire, world-renowned three-star Michelin chef.
In the rarefied world of haute cuisine, there are perhaps two or three chefs in each generation who are considered the best. Pierre Gagnaire is one of those. His restaurant located in the 8th Arrondisement of Paris is notable for both the beauty of the table and the creativity of the chef. The establishment is recognized as such with the highest honor of a Michelin Guide three-star rating. I was intrigued by the quote that accompanied the invitation to a tasting luncheon prepared by chef Ahn Jung-hyun as I had the pleasure of dining at the famed French restaurant. The affinity is understandable. I noted that Gagnaire’s cooking was influenced by Asian produce when I had dined there. Ahn Jung-hyun’s menu reflected the finesse and subtlety of flavors that great chefs proffer to eager connoisseurs. Who is this shy woman? According to the biography accompanying the invitation, Ahn Jung-hyun began her career 10 years ago in preparing traditional Korean wedding food and food presented as gifts. She appears to be selftaught, besides being tutored by her mother-in-law in food and presentation, and her natural aesthetic sensibility. There was an exquisiteness in the manner in which each dish was arranged, lilting on the plate, strong and natural. The food presentation is based upon color and the health aspects associated with each morsel on the plate. As with some other Asian cuisines, Korean food can also be summarized in their saying “food is like a restorative tonic.”



Korean Culinary Art Combining Tradition with Creativity
The five-course menu began with tri-colored wheat wraps & fresh ginseng cold plate. Bite-size rolls were colored with the juices of cactus, spinach and mushrooms and filled with julienned shiitake mushrooms, beef, Korean squash and onions nearly indiscernible thanks to the fine knife skills of the chef. A piquant mustard sauce dotted the plate. Ocean fresh scallop and shrimp was arranged over the fine tangle of fresh ginseng and cucumber. Beef marinated in a soybased sauce added the counter-point.
Lobster japchae is considered a festival dish of glass noodles made from sweet potato flour. The noodles were tossed with an assortment of vegetables in a perfect flavor composition accomplished through the chef’s understanding of how the palate perceives flavors with the size of the cut vegetables in relation to the noodle. Chunks of lobster removed from the glowing orange carapace replaced the signature beef traditionally prepared with this dish.
Braised short ribs and vegetable brochette is an unctuous dish said to be a favorite of the royal court. The stew was studded with root vegetables, shiitake mushrooms chestnuts, jujubes and ginko nuts. A lacy mound of vegetables provided contrast to the tasty presentation. Green onions, carrots, Chinese cabbage,bellflower and burdock root were first dredged in flour
and dipped in an egg batter. The vegetables were then pan-fried and removed from the skewers.
Bibimbap is a popular dish appearing on Korean menus in the United States The dish consists of beef, shiitake mushrooms, Korean squash, Chinese bellflower root, carrots, turnips and other assorted green vegetables – all meant to be mixed with white rice and gochujang, a delicious hot sauce made from fermented red pepper paste. On the rectangular plate was a bowl of clear soup astounding in it contemplative in a yin-yang balance. Song-i pine mushrooms and shrimp balls floated in the broth. The mushrooms grow only on the roots of pine trees which are a rare find even by royal chefs. The shrimp balls were cooked with a technique rendering them tender and velvety. Rippling earthenware fired with a celadon glaze showcased each course which was shipped from Korea for the occasion.
The classic grapes of chardonnay for the white wine and cabernet sauvignon for the red wine from California were selected for the menu. Both wine selections were beautifully tuned to the delicacy of the dishes. Ginseng wine was served with a dessert of ginger ice cream and fresh fruit. I had anticipated a bright herbal taste with a tinge of a medicinal finish. However, it was a swirl to other thoughts as the wine referenced Madeira, being slight oxidized in both color and taste. A unique tasting experience that ended the meal with ginger and ginseng which are both considered to be tonics for good health.The afternoon included a cooking demonstration of the most popular Korean dish, bibimbap.
Bonnie Moore represented the Women Chefs and Restaurateurs in presenting Ahn Jung-hyun with honorary membership. She is one of two chefs to be so honored. The other is Cristeta Comerford, the chef of the White House.

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