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네이버 공유 카카오 공유 트위터 공유 페이스북 공유

Ancient History and Literature of Gyeongju

On April 16, I set out on a three-day field trip organized by the Korea Foundation. Once outside of Seoul, our bus made its way along endless highways. So did a ceaseless succession of green mountains outside the window. Via Jinju, Tongyeong, Gimhae, and Ulsan, we finally arrived in Gyeongju.



It is not an exaggeration to say that the entire city of Gyeongju, with the thousand year-long history of Shilla still intact, is like a history book. We could smell the scent of history, like that of a thousand-year-old pine tree, in every corner of the city. While listening to our guide’s vivid description about the city, we toured Seokkuram Grotto, Bulguksa Temple, Cheonmachong Tombs, and Cheomseongdae Observatory. Unknowingly, I was absorbed into the city surroundings as if traveling on a time machine to when Silla people went about their everyday life here.
We walked along a mountain road to reach Seokkuram Grotto, and all of us simultaneously paused as it came into sight. How could they such a large and elaborate Buddhist sculpture at this high mountain area? The greatness of history seems to reveal itself even more brightly as time goes by. I suddenly felt myself small, which made me speechless. I was awestruck by the marvelous craftsmanship of the Shilla people. We then headed for Bulguksa Temple. Poet Park Mok-wol’s poem “Bulguksa” came to mind: “The Jaha Gate under the white moonlight / The great Buddha statue inside Daeungjeon / Clouds floating above the Beomyeongnu Pavilion…” It felt as if Shilla, the poet, and I were all somehow joined together in spirit at that moment. The sunlight was dazzling, even for a spring day. I stopped to look at Seokkatap Pagoda.
I thought of the tragic love story of Asadal and Asanyeo. Is it true that it does not cast a shadow? I was curious. No. I could see a shadow. I smiled. I felt at ease as if I had solved a puzzle. I also felt a little disappointment, on the other hand. However, it might not be such a memorable experience if everything was satisfactory, comfortable, and perfect. A little regret, insufficiency, and irony – it seems this is the real charm of travel.
On our way to Cheomseongdae Observatory, I lagged behind the group because I was attracted to poems inscribed on monuments along the road. There were works by poets such as Kim Dong-ri of Gyeongju, as well as Park Mok-wol, Mun Hyu-chi, and Kim Nyeon-gyun of Gyeongsang Province. It was indeed an unexpected joy that you can appreciate poetry in such a place of historic importance. But not everybody is able to enjoy such happiness. Poetry reverberates in the hearts of only those who have a love for it.
I quickly clicked the shutter to record memories of each poem that expressed the heartfelt sentiments of these poets. “Pushing away dark clouds, embracing rain and wind / Listening to the whispering of stars about their sad story / I want to get connected to the sky…” As for Kim Wol-jun’s poem “Cheomseongdae,” I can imagine seeing a spiritual leader in black stretch out his arms, make an incantation, and pray for the country’s eternal peace. I guess the special value of literature gave me a more divine sense and attachment than simply observing Cheomseongdae. We thus wound up our three-day field trip. Like the pearl that attracts attention to the oyster, literary remains can enhance the value of historical developments and cultural relics.

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