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My One Year ‘Pilgrimage’ in Seoul

Since I was a child, I have always had a deep interest in the history, geography, and cultural aspects of nations around the world. But I personally never liked to live in a bustling metropolis area. I thus imagined that living in Seoul would mean having a hectic life in one of the biggest metropolitan cities in the world. It was in fact true generally, since wherever I went there were so many people roaming around in this city, where about one-fifth of the Korean population resides.
During my stay, my perceptions about the Seoul metropolis underwent a total change. Seoul was the capital of the Joseon Dynasty before it became the capital of Korea. Over time and with Korea’s rapid economic growth, known as the “Han River Miracle,” the city was transformed into a modern and unique metropolis with skyscrapers, apartment buildings, complicated roads, subway lines crisscrossing the area. A modern metropolis yet still filled with nostalgic reminders of the past. Around the city, ancient structures still stand alongside ultramodern buildings. The city where remnants of the past coexist harmoniously with the present day symbols of modernity and economic growth. Thus my one year stay in Seoul was indeed an unforgettable and joyful adventure.



My Journey in Seoul
After I was approved as a participant of the Korea Foundation’s Korean Language and Culture learning Program for Diplomats, I was assigned by my office to learn about the Korean language and culture. And I indeed enjoyed learning about both. I spent my weekends somewhat differently than most. Seoul offers many attractive places for shopping and leisure activities, and while I enjoyed that, my main interest was to visit cultural and historical sites, which were abundantly available in and around Seoul. This included prehistoric settlements in Amsa, ancient tombs from various dynasties, remains of Seoul city’s walls, earthen fortresses in Pungnap and Mongcheon, and palaces of the Joseon Dynasty. I spent my year in Seoul seeing as many of these attractions as possible.

Grand Palaces
I loved to visit the cultural heritages in Seoul, especially the five grand palaces of the Joseon Dynasty and Jongmyo Shrine. The first palace that I visited was Deoksu Palace, situated right in the front of Seoul City Hall. Deoksu Palace is rather small when compared with other palaces, and in fact it has been reduced greatly from its original scale. But I loved the big bell there and the cherry blossoms that decorated the pathways in the spring. And the best part of this palace is actually outside its grounds. Deoksu Stone Wall Street is said to be the “most elegant roadway in Seoul.” It is such a lovely promenade, especially in the autumn, where the ginko trees lining the road show off their golden leaves. And despite a myth that says any couple who passes along this road on a snowy day will eventually break up, the area takes on such a graceful appearance when covered with a blanket of fresh white snow.
I then visited the majestic Gyeongbok Palace, the heart of the Joseon Dynasty. In this center of government during the Joseon Dynasty, I was able to view the main throne from where the Joseon kings reigned for six centuries, the lovely Gyeonghoeru and Hwangwonjeong ponds, and the stately Gwanghwamun gate overlooking the city. Not far from Gyeongbok Palace, I found Sajik Altar, where rites were held to honor the earth and grain gods for the well-being of the dynasty and its people. I then visited the UNESCO World Heritage’s designated Changdeok Palace, which is not the grandest but was highly impressive. The most well preserved palace among the five, many areas have remained unaltered, even after many centuries. And as I came across colorful azaleas in full bloom, the Secret Garden in the rear area of the pal ace grounds sparkled with natural beauty.
I then found Changgyeong Palace by accident. It was when I entered the Jongmyo Shrine, one of the most sacred structures of the Joseon Dynasty, where the Joseon monarchs performed annual rituals to venerate their ancestors. It is also listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. From the rear gate of this shrine there is a bridge that connects to Changgyeong Palace, where I enjoyed its pond and pagodas. The fifth palace I visited was Gyeonghee Palace, though the original buildings were destroyed during the Japanese colonial period. But this palace still reflects the court lifestyle of the Joseon Dynasty.

Ancient Tombs in the City
I admire the efforts of the Seoul government to preserve and manage ancient sites within the city, thereby providing attractions for learning and tourism. In particular, I especially enjoyed visiting ancient tomb sites in Seoul. A little weird perhaps, but the local government has in fact converted those tombs into park and visitor sites. As such, Seoulites are able to “interact” with their long ago ancestors by spending their leisure time at one of the tomb areas, along with couples on a date and others who come by for relaxation. The Seolleung tomb, where two kings of the Joseon Dynasty are buried, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage. It is a well preserved historical site as well as a cozy park for leisure. And I personally enjoyed both aspects. In addition, I also spent my leisure time at a Baekje-period tomb in Bangi-dong and a Koguryo-style tomb in Seokchon, which reveal various styles.
As a student with a personal interest in traveling and learning about Korea’s history and culture during my one year in Seoul, this stay has indeed given me so many joyful moments and valuable lessons. My country of Indonesia is extremely rich in various historical and cultural remnants as well. So the Korean government’s commitment to preserving and managing ancient sites, as historical and cultural attractions for learning and tourism, is a good example for us to learn from.