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A Rewarding Journey into Korea’s History and Culture

I participated in a spring field trip organized by the Korea Foundation on May 27-29, which included visits to Jinju, Namhae, Ssanggyesa Buddhist Temple in Hadong, and Nogodan of Mt. Jiri in South Gyeonsang Province, along with Jeonju and Iksan in Jeollabuk-do Province. I was pleased that all of these places, except Iksan, were new to me. I studied Korean at a university in Iksan, but unfortunately did not have a chance to visit other places before this. I had high expectations about the trip since one of my Korean friends told me that the itinerary was so great that he wished he could accompany me.



Jinju and Namhae
I was thrilled as the departure day approached. Since I had to get up early in the morning to meet up with the group, I felt drowsy in the bus. But I struggled to stay awake and look out of the window to enjoy the scenery of Korea in late May, before the departure of this gorgeous season. We arrived in Jinju, known as a city of education and the former capital of Gyeongsangnamdo Province. Jinju welcomed us with clear skies and warm weather, unlike in Seoul. The scenery of Jinju along the Namgang River, which makes its way across the city, was delightful. We got off the bus and had a delicious lunch before our visit to Jinju Castle. Looking around Chokseongnu Pavilion, Nongae Shrine, and Uiam Rock at the castle, I could sense the culture of the Joseon period. Especially, I was deeply moved when I heard about the heroic story of Nongae, who jumped off a cliff into the Namgang River, while grasping a Japanese general, during the Imjin War, or the Japanese Invasion of Korea, from 1592 to 1598.
Then, we arrived at the Jinju National Museum, where we learned about the ancient history of the region through various relics excavated in the Jinju area. We also viewed a 3D video on the history of Jinju Castle, at the time of the Imjin War. What especially attracted my attention was the display of relics related to Admiral Yi Sun-sin and the Imjin War. I once heard that a famous Japanese admiral held Admiral Yi Sun-sin in high regard, and I can understand why.
Our bus left Jinju behind and we headed to Namhae. We stopped off at the beautiful Boriam Hermitage, which offers a scenic view of the ocean below. While looking at the hermitage, so dangerously positioned on the cliff’s edge, I wondered how it had been built there. I was very surprised to learn that it had been built by the great monk Wonhyo, of whom I knew well. I again realized that Korean Buddhist culture was indeed highly advanced. The religiously significant site stood in wonderful harmony with the natural surroundings. Looking out at the sea from Boriam, I could make out small graceful islands, scattered around here and there among the shimmering waves. Before checking in at our overnight accommodations, we enjoyed a delicious dinner with makgeolli, one of the region’s specialties.



Breath-taking Mt. Jiri
The following day we visited Iraksa, built in honor of Admiral Yi Sunsin, and then left Namhae for Ssanggyesa Buddhist Temple in Hadong. I could experience the true beauty of Korea from the upright pine trees at the entrance to the temple. There are many pine trees in my hometown, too. So I felt that the beauty of Korea might long remain in my memory, even after I returned home. Built during the Silla period, Ssanggyesa exuded a scent of history that seemed to transcend the mundane world. I could appreciate the high-standard Korean efforts to preserve such a temple over the centuries.
We then headed for Mt. Jiri, the first National Park of Korea, and one of Korea’s eight scenic sites and one of its five great mountains. The majestic Carpathian Mountains are found in the western region of Ukraine. Mt. Jiri reminded me of the stately Carpathians. I was indeed touched by the graceful scenery of Mt. Jiri, from Seongsamjae to Nogodan. I could taste the flavor of Korean mountains, which was somewhat different from that of the Carpathians. Usually I have little interest in climbing mountains. But to my surprise, I quickly made my way up to the peak, where I took photographs and fully savored the picturesque scenery.
Our delicious dinner was accompanied by ppongju (mulberry wine), a first for me. After dinner, we went out for fresh air and discovered a baby bird that had fallen to the ground from its nest under the roof. One of my colleagues found a ladder and quickly climbed up to the nest, where he safely placed the bird. While talking with each other, we felt a sense of weariness probably due to our earlier mountain climbing experience. We retired to our rooms and I fell into a deep sleep.
It was already the final day of our trip. We visited the historic city of Jeonju in Jeollabuk-do Province. As we entered Hanok Village, it felt as if we were being taken back in time. I have heard that the traditional Korean house, representing the beauty of Korea, was disappearing in Seoul. But, I was delighted to see a number of well-preserved traditional Korean houses in Jeonju. We carefully listened to our travel guide’s explanation about the history of Joseon, including the fact that the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty had been stored in Jeonju. We also had an interesting experience at Hanok Village by making our own incense bag. We first wrapped seven kinds of medicinal herbs with traditional Korean paper, hanji, and placed it in a small bag, according to the directions of an instructor of the Jeonju Cultural Center of Traditional Korean Medicine, which is operated by Woosuk University. After lunch, we had free time to look around Hanok Village. Back on the bus again, we headed for the Mireuksa Buddhist Temple site in Iksan, where I had studied Korean a decade earlier. We learned about the continued excavation of the relics of Baekje, and looked around the site.
The three-day spring field trip was a great opportunity to sense the history, tradition, and beauty of Korea. And I was very pleased to get to know many people from various countries during the trip. I would like to express my gratitude once again to the Korea Foundation for such a wonderful program. I am already looking forward to the next field trip.